Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens

Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.

This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," states the grower. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and community plots across the city. It is too clandestine to have an formal title so far, but the collective's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.

City Vineyards Around the World

To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the only one listed in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming world atlas, which features better-known city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's historic Montmartre area and over 3,000 vines with views of and inside Turin. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the globe, including cities in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. They protect open space from construction by establishing long-term, productive agricultural units within urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the president.

Unknown Polish Variety

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may take advantage to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."

Group Efforts Across the City

Additional participants of the collective are additionally taking advantage of bright periods between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they continue producing from this land."

Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants slung across the hillside with the assistance of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can command prices of upwards of £7 a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in low-processing vintages. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make good, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the liquid," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a container of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and then add a lab-grown yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick white wine varieties from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to France. However it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I aimed to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits the retiree with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Alexis Hodge
Alexis Hodge

A security consultant with over a decade of experience in tactical risk assessment and mitigation strategies.

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